I spent the flight relaxing my muscles and jiggling back and forth due to turbulence. It felt like the pilot had hit a washboard on a dirt road, and was refusing to back down. Judder judder. As the captain prepared for the final descent, and we all tightened our belts for a rough landing, the clouds parted and we steadied. Below me slept India. It was 12am in the middle of June and a tiny amount of moonlight leaked through clouds high above us. The land below was dark and for